I put the modem in Transparent mode so I can use my Apple Time Capsule and WDS features with other Airports in the house. How do I get access to the modem page still to be able to check on some things? I am on a ZyXel C1100Z. I have tried to use an IP Scanner but it doesn't pick up the device.
↧
Can I still access the modem web pages in Transparent Mode?
↧
My experience upgrading internet with CenturyLink 4Q 2017
This is a very long post, but I am a novice at this stuff and this website helped me out once when I was in a jam so I've come back to maybe help other newbies who can benefit from any part of my story.
I am in Seattle and have had 7mbps DSL with CenturyLink since about 2009 on a Price For Life campaign (PFL) that they had back then, where you could bundle the PFL with your home phone line. The 7 mbps was $59.95 per month but when bundled with home phone the final price with all taxes etc. was $39 and some change. (Although the bill added each month the Internet Cost Recovery Fee, on the same bill it also credited back that same amount. I had read somewhere that CenturyLink was told (by the FCC?) that Price For Life meant exactly that, so that is why the credit for it showed up every month.) I've had no trouble with the service, maybe a time or to in all of these years where I lost the connection and a reboot of my modem fixed it. I thought 7 mbps would suffice me forever, yeah right! My brother lives an hour away in Frontier Communications territory where all he can get is 3 mbps and he is envious of my 7 mbps! Yet, now I want to stream without the chronic buffering thing, but I also did not want to lose my PFL convenience and be subject to future price increases.
Well, along comes CenturyLink's resurrected PFL campaign (beginning last September?) where it states you do not even need a home phone to get their PFL prices. Because they had previously strung an aerial fiber cable along my arterial street, the new speeds available to me were 20, 40, 100, and 1 gig. I called them up, wanting to upgrade, but they stated I did not qualify for the PFL prices because I had a home phone with them! Hey, I thought my home phone didn't matter to them! Hmm... I decided they figured they already had me in the bag and only sought customers who switch from their competitors. Not cool. I could have sworn their website text stated "for new and existing customers" but I could no longer find that text. I called back a week or so later to try again, the rep said the only way I could qualify as a "new" customer for the PFL was to disconnect my current DSL *and* my home phone line, then place an order for new home phone service with the PFL High Speed Internet (HSI, no longer referred to as DSL, apparently). I thought disconnecting my home phone line was completely unnecessary and a lot of hoop-jumping for me, the customer, just to get around their apparent marketing restrictions. I didn't do it.
This drove me nuts. I want to pay CL more money but they won't let me! Why won't CL take my money? I've never heard anything like this before. I mean, who doesn't want to make a better profit from their customers? I then finally noticed on their ubiquitous PFL TV commercials the small print that appears for only one second, and it said "for new and existing customers"! Why not me? I'm an existing customer!
After some thought, I decided that perhaps it was the way I opened the discussion with their reps when I would ask them for exactly what was advertised in their PFL TV commercials. If they had to tell me 'no', why wouldn't they say, "But here is what we CAN offer you!". So, a month or more later, I called them up a third time and said, "I currently enjoy bundled service with home phone and 7 mbps internet. I've been thinking about upgrading my internet. What can you offer me to bundle my home phone with a higher internet speed?" I did not even mention the PFL TV commercials.
The rep replied that she could do this: disconnect from my existing billing account the DSL portion, leaving on that account just my home landline, then create a second account (separate billing number) for my new PFL higher internet speed. Smokin'! Gee, did CL just give their reps the ok to be this creative or did I happen to reach a spunky service rep? Who cares! I dig it! I ordered 100 mbps service and chose to buy their $100 modem (er, router) rather than rent it, and because I don't want any future trouble-shooting to be pinned on a third-party router; I want to be able to say, "Hey, I bought it from YOU!" LOL. She said the earliest the guy could come out would be three days later. I asked would my modem arrive so quickly? She said yes.
Two days later, a contractor came out and ran optical fiber from the pole and along my house to near where the copper phone line entered my house, leaving a coil of optical fiber hanging. This is normal and expected. He told me that the regular installer may or may not remove the copper drop.
LESSON NUMBER 1: Although my outcome was beautiful (explained in a moment), if ordering HSI that will result in a brand new fiber drop, one should realize in advance just where they expect to drill through the wall of your home in order to mount on your inside wall their Optical Network Terminal (ONT) so that it isn't a shockeroo when the regular CL installer shows up, with short notice to approve of the drilling. They will want it near an inside power outlet. While their regular installer may have flexibilities available to him to move the drilling location assumed by the contractor, maybe you can get ahead of this by identifying as early as possible what your options are as far as where on the outside of your house they can drill (what room of your house, that is, and near a power outlet). In my case, where they planned to drill and mount turned out to be the best outcome for my situation, even after discussing their options with the actual installer who came out the very next day (the third day).
On the morning of this third day, the actual CL installer had called me early 0830am to verify that I would be home for my afternoon window. I said yes but the promised new modem had not arrived in the mail. He said no problem, they would loan me one to get me up and running and when mine arrives I could swap it out and return theirs to them with pre-paid postage. Cool. He came out and I pointed where on the inside wall I was looking for the ONT to be mounted, he measured relative to the nearby window, went outside and drilled the hole. Over the hole on the outside of the house he mounted a sturdy plastic box that he said contained the extra optical fiber length, coiled up. Over the hole on the inside of my house he mounted the ONT upside-down, probably to put the connection jacks at the bottom side where dust wouldn't fall into them. I like that he did that, placed it upside down, and this black box is so devoid of style and printing that you do not notice its orientation on the wall unless you get your face up close to read the small print labeling the LEDs. All connections attach along the bottom. Perfect.
He had assumed my home phone line would also be served by the fiber drop so he proceeded to make me realize that the copper wiring to all of my existing wall jacks would be made inoperative. I asked how can I have my existing phone extensions in the other rooms if he cut dead the copper drop? This was a surprise. I had not anticipated this. To run a phone cord from the nearest wall jack to the ONT phone jack in order to still utilize my other wall jacks would be too far to run it. He said what folks do is to buy a phone system with many wireless handsets, plugging in the base station at/to the ONT and to the nearby wall outlet, then plugging in the remote handset bases wherever else in the house they wanted extension phones. As I settled into this unsettling consequence (another expense, and will eat up more wall outlets), and as he went back and forth inside and outside my house, upon his next trip indoors he said he looked closer at my order and they were keeping my home phone on the copper. Hooray! That means my wall jacks will stay operative. I will have both a copper drop for my home phone and a fiber drop for my HSI. No need to buy a new phone system. I love it!
LESSON NUMBER 2: if you currently have a working landline plugged into any of the wall jacks that were installed when your home was new, and if you do not want to abandon that copper line and all of your extension jacks when you install a new optical drop, to have to buy a new wireless phone system to hog all of your wall power outlets, you should find out in advance from CL if you can keep your landline on the copper and have only your HSI go in on the new fiber drop. That is definitely the way I would go. I make note that the contractor was not there to pull down the copper. I am very happy that they kept my landline on the copper. Maybe I lucked out because the service rep had created a separate billing account for only my HSI which logically left my landline untouched. Incidentally, with my HSI removed from the phone line, I was now able to remove from each wall jack the little filtering dongle that CL gave me back in 2009 to use at each wall jack where I had a phone plugged in.
With the installer done with his installation, I accessed my modem wirelessly from my desktop, seven feet away, tables, books, and a huge printer in the air path. He said a wireless connection would be less than the 100 mbps speed. A speedtest came in at 79mbps download which seemed too much of a degradation over wireless but it is his loaner modem and maybe my modem will be better? After he departed, I replaced my wireless connection with a 14-foot CAT6 cable and the speedtest came in at 103 mbps. Smokin'! What a drop in download speed for wireless, though, huh?
A week later, my first bill on this new billing account was rendered and it showed the $100 charge for the modem which had still not arrived. I called the billing department to explain I was not excited to pay for something that may never arrive. He said the notations in my account showed that they considered the loaned modem as mine. I told him the installer said it was not new and I'd rather have a new one for the price I am paying for a new one. No problem at all, they ordered a new one and as I write this, the UPS tracking states it is expected to arrive Monday, two days from now. The rep said there was no additional charge of course but he was wise enough to say that if somehow a second $100 charge shows up on the next bill, to call them and they would write it off because of his copious notes from our call.
That is my experience. I will say the contractor and the CL installer were both nice, courteous, and available to answer my questions. Even though this long story might seem to contain several minor issues, I am very happy with how this whole thing went down. I have worked for a large company and have dealt with plenty of large companies and I know how things go, so you will not find me blaming for certain unknowns in this story. I later read that CL initially allowed PFL for only new customers but later allowed it for existing customers so maybe that explains why I was initially refused. I don't hold ill will. My new 100 mbps HSI from CenturyLink absolutely rocks. And, it's Price For Life which took the scare out of future budgeting on my income. Their website says PFL is still exempt from the Internet Cost Recovery Fee. I am very happy with this service and wanted to explain the whole upgrade experience, the great, the good, and the not so good. I would recommend this service to others but I would make any novices like me sit through my story so they would be better equipped. I understand CL personnel also read this forum. Thank you.
↧
↧
CenturyLink c1100z modem help
The modem lights are all green but the Internet stops responding after 1 to 2 minutes until I reboot it happens every time the lights stay on just no internet.
Centurylink just tells me I have the newest modem and said they would call me back but never did and most of the time they just hang up on me this has to be the worst isp ever.
Don't know what else to do if it can't be fixed I might just have to cancel it.
↧
In the center of town and CenturyLink only offers 25/2??
I am close to the center of a Texas town, a block from a US highway and business corridor, and we are only offered 25/2 service; the speed tests are similar and show 26.2/2.1. I run a business where we have to stream video, and 2.1 is not sufficient to do anything but basic 480p video.
We opted to rent the modem to try to get the correct line technology; it's an Actiontec C1000A VDSL2. I assumed since it's a VDSL2 modem there were bonded or symmetric plans they could offer us, but when I called CenturyLink they basically shrugged and said 25/2 is all we can get, and there are no options except to bring fiber in ($400/month).
I am currently looking at dropping CenturyLink and trying Zito cablemodem service, which offers 100/10, and is more than enough.
QUESTION #1: Is there any way we can bring in bonded or symmetric service here in Palestine TX, zip 75803 on CenturyLink?
QUESTION #2: I was also surprised to see there is not an official CenturyLink assistance forum on this website like AT&T and Windstream offer for solving problems. Are there any higher tier officials here who can advise? We're basically behind a strip of businesses and close to a DSLAM and I cannot believe they won't even offer us pair bonding.
↧
Centurylink DNS on the fritz?
In western CO and just lost the ability to connect to any Google sites (Gmail, YouTube, etc.) as well as a few others as of about 30 minutes ago. Switching to Google's public DNS fixed it. Anybody else experiencing this tonight?
↧
↧
C2100T Bridge VDSL2 Bonding Nighthawk R7000 Wi-Fi Using 1 Bond Grr
I have a C2100T modem that a tech came out and installed a VDSL2 bonded Line. The drop looks clean, tech wired everything house which is a newer house and when wired the modem pulls 80/10+ even slightly higher almost every time. No issues what so ever. No drops or signal issues. Quality connection via the bonded line.
The C2100T was a pain to bridge at first having to read some threads on here with getting settings to stick, but eventually got it working with the C2100T set to Transparent bridging tagged vlan 201. Connection is made via LAN/WAN White port on the C2100T to the internet port of the R7000. Bridge is place.
PPOE user name and pass I got from CL tech support (which is awful) plugged that into the R7000 once C2100T was bridged fired right up. R7000 now in charge picks up a WAN ip and handles all DHCP traffic on network no double nat issues great just as I wanted. In my area CL still uses PPPOE, have not got it working with IPoE.
When I wire a device to the nighthawk directly, it passes all speed and port tests. I pull 80/10+ almost every time when wired to the nighthawk R7000 and pulls the same speeds when pulling speed tests directly from the C2100T that is not bridged.
What puzzles me is when using wi-fi no matter what I do I can't exceed the speed of the one bonded line. I can pull 40/5+ almost every time which is only utilizing 1 of the bonded lines over wi-fi. I have tried everything I can think of, 5Ghz only, 1 device, no QOS, Beam forcing on/off, channel adjustments, older firmware builds, new firmware, older firmware, latest firmware.
Link speed on the test devices using 802.11AC and shows local link speed to the router as 500+ and should easily be able to pull 80/10 yet it never does not matter what I do. Yet if I hardware something to the nighthawk while still bridged I pull full speeds 80/10+ from the nighthawk.
I have tried adjusting MTU settings, QOS, the works and nothing seems to help. Regardless the bridge is in place and working just like I want it, it's just when using wi-fi it will only use one of the bonded lines instead of both. I'm guessing it has something to do with the bonded line, I have setup dozens of these routers usually on Docsis 3 and have never had any speed issues.
Any suggestions at this point? Screen shot attached. Please don't suggest to use the C2100T only, I got the nighthawk for several reasons and everything works just something is going on when using wi-fi to pull wan data is using only 1 of the bonded lines yet when wired to the nighthawk it will use both.
↧
Remove Interleaving From DSL...How To Request?
Last time I had CenturyLink DSL, I was able to easily request that interleaving be removed from my line in order to get pings down and gain better performance. This time around, the person on the phone had no idea what I was talking about.
How can I request that interleaving be removed from my line (and my son's as well)?
There were absolutely no problems after it was previously removed, I am in the same location, etc, with the same speeds, etc. as well.
I'd really appreciate a heads up on how best to request this.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Note: It was called setting the line to Fastpath.
↧
Static IP Addresses
So I'm going to order some addresses from CL. Just wanted to clarify a few things.
So for IPv4 a block of 8 only has 5 usable addresses, just checking thats because I get a mini subnet so I "loose" some addresses to network,router,broadcast addresses? E.g.
192.168.0.0 - network (un-assignable)
192.168.0.1 - router (pre-assigned)
192.168.0.2-6 - (assignable)
192.168.0.7 - broadcast (un-assignable)
That sound about right (and yes, I'm aware they won't assign a 192 block).
For IPv6 addresses, they claim to give you a usable subnet. Does anyone know the size of the subnet they assign. I would hope it would be enough to cover a full IPv4 subnet?
Thanks all!
↧
Packet Loss preventing connection to Game server
At the tail end of January something changed where I cannot connect to a game server anymore. I've worked with game developers extensively and they have even reached out to Centurylink to no avail. They have now asked me to do the same (again). I've run tracert commands dozens of times and found the same exact packet loss occurring every time with IP4.GTT.NET. I've asked to speak with a network engineer in chat and on the phone, and the only thing they do is trouble shoot my wireless, and run speed tests. They either don't seem to understand the issue or are ignoring my request. This happened to me once before many years ago, and I was immediately put in touch with a network engineer who understood the issue and had it fixed in less than 24 hours. It's been 14 days now.. and I can't even get past a basic tech support person that wants to make sure my wireless is working. ( all my computers are hardwired ) What has changed?! I don't understand why my ISP no longer listens to their customer. If there is a Centurylink representative out there, Please contact me. I don't have issues connecting to any other game servers except this one.
↧
↧
How to almost use any router with CenturyLink's 1 Gig Internet!
So I have CenturyLink's 1 gigabit Internet. One of the biggest complaints I've seen around the Internet over the last year or so is that it's really difficult to use the router of your choice with their service.
CenturyLink provides some pretty awful equipment with their gigabit Internet service. Wireless-N router. Seriously?
The 2 biggest problems I see are the VLAN 201 issue where CL requires you to put a VLAN 201 on the Internet/WAN port of our router. A lot of consumer routers don't support this, or you have to flash custom firmware, etc. And the 2nd biggest problem is consumer routers not being able to download up to the full gigabit speed. Some routers cap out at 300Mbps - 500Mbps.
I FINALLY HAVE FOUND THE SOLUTION! Between the 2 problems mentioned above, my steps below completely solve th VLAN 201 issue.
Now I'm not a networking person, so maybe this seems pretty obvious to some of you. However, over my last year of research, I have not seen this mentioned anywhere on the Internet. I finally found this info on DD-WRT forum website by someone who goes by the username "JAMESMTL." He suggested to a user "why don't you just buy a managed switch and create a VLAN 201 on it."
I seriously thought to myself, "is that all it takes to finally fix this VLAN 201 issue once and for all?" Absolutely!
So here's the switch I bought off of Amazon "NETGEAR ProSAFE GS105Ev2 5-Port Gigabit Web Managed (Plus) Switch (GS105Ev2)" I got it for roughly $40.
Once I got the switch in the mail, it was pretty much just configuring the switch with VLANs 201 on ports 1 and 2. This way the managed switch handles the VLAN 201 issue and then you can almost use any router you want with your CenturyLink service!
Keep in mind, I think you will still have to have a pretty new and kick-butt router, because the router needs to have decent hardware so it can download almost gigabit speeds. I think it's called "NAT acceleration?" From what I've leared online over the last year or so, some routers write their firmware to take advance of this. It's a mixture of hardware/software. If you're going to try and use an old router from a couple years ago, you may run into the 2nd biggest problem I've mentioned above. Your router may cap out download speeds of 300Mbps - 500Mbps.
2 routers I have tested behind my managed switch, are Asus AC3100 and the Netgear Orbi that just came out last month. Both routers performed excellent in speed tests! I was able to achieve 900+Mbps.
Now on to the good stuff! Configuring the Netgear ProSafe GS105Ev2!
-------------------===============-------------------
In a nutshell, this is essentially how your network is going to setup with the managed switch:
switch port 1 -> The ethernet cord going from your ONT box is to be plugged into port 1 on the managed switch.
switch port 2 -> The ethernet cord going from port 2 of the managed switch will plug into the WAN (or Internet) port on the back of your router.
switch port 3 -> The ethernet cord going from port 3 should plug into your computer's Ethernet port so you can access the switch's admin panel to configure it.
STEPS TO CONFIGURE THE SWITCH WITH VLAN 201:
So what you're going to do is open the Netgear Utility program to manage this switch.
1. Disable DHCP on the switch, as your router will be handling DHCP. You'll do this by clicking on 'IP Settings' after the utility program discovers your switch.
2. Make sure the switch is on the same subnet as your router. My default router's gateway is 192.168.1.1, therefore, after I disabled DHCP on the switch, the Netgear utility program assigned the switch an IP address of 192.168.1.15. Perfect! Now the Netgear switch is on the same IP subnet as my router. Apply the settings! Now it's time to go into the switch and configure it!
3. Click the VLAN tab in the Netgear configuration utility program.
4. Click on 802.1Q
5. Click on 'Advanced'
6. Enable Advanced 802.1Q
7. Create a VLAN ID with the value '201'
8. Now click on the 'VLAN Membership' link on the left-hand side.
9. In the 'VLAN Identifier' drop-down list, select 201
10. Click on the white box right below 01 port until the letter 'T' is displayed. (T stands for 'tagged.' Port 1 is going to be 201 Tagged.)
11. Click on the white box right below 02 port until the letter 'U' is displayed. (U stands for 'untagged.' Port 2 is going to be 201 Untagged.)
12. Click on the white boxes below the rest of the ports (ports 3, 4, and 5) until there is nothing displayed in the boxes.
13. Click 'Apply' to save your changes.
14. Finally, click 'port PVID' on the left-hand side.
15. Put a check-mark next to Port 01 and Port 02. Assign them both a PVID of 201. Click 'Apply' to save your changes.
16. Configure your home router with your CenturyLink's PPPoE credentials. You can get this info by calling CenturyLink if needed. However, most of us should have received this info from our technician when they installed our Internet. Once you do this, your Internet light on your router should turn green (or whatever color it turns to indicate it's receiving a good Internet connection!)
17. Now disconnect the ethernet cord going from port 3 of the switch to your computer. You now need to plug an ethernet cord into your desktop's LAN port and plug the other end into a port on the back of your router (your desktop needs Internet access after all!)
18. (Optional Step) If you want to be able to access the Netgear's admin panel later on in case you ever need to make changes, then plug an Ethernet cord into port 3 on the back of your managed switch, and plug the other end of ethernet cord into a free port on the back of your router.
REMINDER!: If you are using a router that does by chance allow you to set a VLAN 201 on the WAN/Internet port (like a lot of Asus routers) don't forget to go and remove that now! Your managed switch will be handling the VLAN 201 tagging from now on :-)
YOU'RE DONE! Your $30-40 managed switch is now configured with VLAN 201 so you can now use ANY router with your CenturyLink gigabit Internet (as long as the router supports PPPoE, which most do.)
I know this seems like a lengthy process, but it's actually not. I want to say I spent anywhere from 45 minutes - 1 hour tops! I'm not an expert, but I'm also not a novice.
If anyone has any questions, I'll be happy to answer!
So to wrap it up. What does this work-around provide? It will allow you to use the router of your choice with your CenturyLink gigabit Internet service. You don't have to worry about flashing custom firmwares to routers. You don't have to worry about finding a router that allows you to creat VLANs on the Internet/WAN port, etc. The Netgear managed switch takes care of this!
Hope this helps!
↧
Need fiber optic modem for CenturyLink
I have had a fiber optic account for 2 years, and now that my company is not paying for this, I need to switch from renting my router to buying one. I originally had the Prism TV and a phone line, but have dropped those from my account. I want to buy my own modem (I have a router), but am confused. The current modem is a Calix 716GE-I. It has 4 ethernet ports which I am using one to my router. It also has a white wire coming out of the back of the modem that connects to a wall jack via a small square connector that looks like it might be a fiber connector (I have never seen this before). The white wire looks like it might be a custom modified modem job, as there is no connector on the modem.
My service is 50/3 and, as I said, I would like to buy a replacement modem so I can do away with the Calix rental modem. What modem can I purchase?
Thanks.
↧
[Prism TV] No NBA TV On Prism?
Went to watch the 76ers game last night when I got home from work, and finally realized that Prism apparently doesn't carry NBA TV.
I seriously didn't think CL was missing any higher viewed channels before this - but is this true?
(Yes I realize I'm probably answering my own question, but seems strange they'd be missing a standard Turner provided channel) :-)
↧
DSL stays connected but internet drops frequently
I live in Jerome, AZ a population of 400. CenturyLink is the only high speed option available. I started my DSL service with QWEST and have enjoyed good solid service for years. I began having this problem in the beginning of January. My DSL modem lights were all showing correctly but my connection to the internet would appear to be dropped on a regular basis. Sometimes the drop would last a few minutes, sometimes longer and then the connection would appear to be back again. CenturyLink sent out service people on several occasions... they would test the NID and my modem and say that they could not find the problem. About the 3rd or 4th time subcontractors, ITC Service Group out of Phoenix, came out and they were able to get me back up and working again. (Not sure all that they did.)
Two weeks ago I began having problems again.
In the past two weeks CenturyLink has been here to check things about ten times. First they sent out residential service techs. Each time they tested the signal at the NID and then at the modem and found everything to be “within acceptable parameters”. I started with an Actiontech C1900A modem. By the second or third visit I was given a Technicolor C1100T modem. The problem still existed… which is when I try to go to any web page it usually takes a considerable amount of time and often shows me that it is “looking for…” that website. Quite often the page will not load and present me with one of three error messages:
“Cannot find the server”
“The server timed out”
“The page could not be loaded because the connection was reset”
Also, I manage more than a dozen email accounts (I am a web designer). In order to access email I very often am told that one or more of my accounts failed with this error message:
“The server returned the error: Connections to host mail.holodynamics.com on the default ports failed.”
Usually I can quit my email program, open it again and the mail will come through. Sometimes I have to repeat the process several times.
CenturyLink then sent out a guy from the Cable department. He spent a lot of time with me over several visits. His tests also indicated that the “copper was good”. However, in the course of his visits he did determine that there were some things that needed to be checked out in their “mapping of the lines”. He made those corrections but told me that he did not think it would make a difference to my problem… which it did not. Also, during the preceding service calls I was told that I was assigned a “new pair” to my location and at some point I was assigned a “new port” at the “DSlam (?)”. Still… no noticeable improvement.
The last visit from CenturyLink was supposed to come and set up a temporary line from the NID to the modem. Much to my surprise, they decided to just replace my old wiring (30+ years) with new and they brought me a new modem… a Zyxel C3000Z. I have tried all three modems and it seems like the Technicolor C1100T works the best… meaning that with that modem I seem to be able to at least get online periodically!
After the new house wiring and the new Zyxel C3000Z modem were installed, I still had the problem. The original cable tech came back (and at that time I think we went back to the Technicolor C1100T modem)… he performed all of the tests and all looked good. He even hooked his Windows laptop to the modem (both ethernet and then wireless) for 10 to 15 minutes each and showed no problem! But… all of my Apple computers (MacPro, iMac, iPad2) still showed the same symptoms!
All of my computers are Apple products.
So… here’s the situation:
I have disconnected all other computers from the ethernet LAN and built & tested a new ethernet cable going directly from my main computer to the modem and I have tried all 4 ethernet ports on the modem.
I ran ping tests on all 4 modem ports: 1,000 pings each port and each port showed:
Port 1 = 3.40% Loss
Port 1 = 1.90% Loss
Port 1 = 0.79% Loss
Port 1 = 0.00% Loss
1. The connection to the internet still drops out but, as far as I can tell, the DSL connection to CenturyLink stays connected.
2. Accessing the GUI is still sporadic… sometimes it shows me the login page right away and sometimes it just hangs and never shows me the page and just says “Waiting on 192.168.0.1” in the browser status bar. Sometimes it tells me that the page could not be read because the server reset itself or the address cannot be found.
When it does show me the login page, sometimes it lets me log in, sometimes it just hangs showing me “Waiting on 192.168.0.1” in the browser status bar.
When I am able to login in sometimes I can navigate the various pages in the GUI fairly fast, sometimes slow and sometimes not at all.
3. The wireless network behaves the same… my iPad and iMac see the wireless network and show a strong signal but each device behaves the same as the ethernet computer(s).
I am at a loss and am not sure what the next step should be.
Any suggestions from this forum will be greatly appreciated.
↧
↧
Losing IP Address with Switch/Orbi Combo [Prism]
Sorry to post another question like this, but it's making me pull my hair out.
In the past two days, my Orbi says that internet connection has been lost. When I go to check to see what's up, The Orbi tells me that I have no assigned IP, with an address of 0.0.0.0.
When I get the internet connection reestablished, it dies after about 10 minutes. Again I go check and and it looses it's assigned IP address. I have no idea what is going on. Do I have a bad switch? Bad Orbi? Terrible luck?
One thing I did notice, if I plug in my PRISM TV box and start it up, I get an IP and the internet starts working again. This lasts until I turn off the prism TV box. Could this be related?
------------------
Switch Details:
IPOE w/ DCHP
VLAN Tagged 201 on PORT 1 -> connected to ONT
VLAN Untagged ON PORT 2 -> Orbi Router
VLAN Untagged on PORT 3 -> IGMP - PRISM TV Box
↧
Centurylink throttling YouTube?
Hey I have been a stay at home dad and have YouTube on pretty much all day for my kids. Anyways, as of yesterday, I’ve noticed that YouTube video quality has dropped off so near standard def and meanwhile Netflix is still streaming 4K without a hitch. Anyone else having the problem?
↧
Ubiquiti?
So I have been using an old Netgear router that has no chance of keeping up with my 1Gbps Fiber connection, most of my house is wired to the key devices and I would like to setup a stronger router setup. I have looked into the Ubiq line and have looked at the ER-4. What else would I need here? A separate switch for the dozen ethernet lines I have?
Any suggestions would be awesome! Thanks guys
↧
Big Slow Down
Last night around 12:25 am MT. Hulu dropping streams near the end of "A Gentleman and an Officer" annoying. Ran a speed test: 17.5Mbits/sec, connection usually runs 23Mbits/sec - "closest test server" - Mannitoba, Canada! A second test with similar results was concluded at 12:32.
Log:
0.00s Start testing DSL
00.22s Servers available: 16
00.27s pinging 12 locations
06.29s 141ms Denver, Colorado, USA
06.29s 155ms Chicago, IL, USA
06.29s 187ms Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
06.29s 202ms Atlanta, GA, USA
06.29s 212ms Council Bluffs, Iowa, USA
06.29s 215ms Fremont, CA, USA
06.29s 227ms Montreal, QC, Canada
06.29s 246ms San Jose, USA
06.29s 258ms Toronto, Canada
06.29s 261ms Newcastle, Delaware, USA
06.29s 262ms Los Angeles 2, CA, USA
06.29s 316ms Silver Spring, MD, USA
06.31s 5 seconds measuring idle buffer bloat
11.75s Trial download normal
11.77s Using GET for upload testing
11.77s preference https set to 1
20.19s stream0 2.23 megabit Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
20.19s stream1 1.42 megabit Chicago, IL, USA
20.19s stream2 2.81 megabit Denver, Colorado, USA
20.19s stream3 2.09 megabit Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
20.19s stream4 3.67 megabit Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
20.19s stream5 1.12 megabit Denver, Colorado, USA
20.19s stream6 1.6 megabit Denver, Colorado, USA
20.19s stream7 2.03 megabit Chicago, IL, USA
27.4s End of download testing. Starting upload in 2 seconds
29.42s Capping upload streams to 3 because of download result
29.42s starting websocket upload with 3 streams
29.42s minimum upload speed of 0.7 per stream
29.73s sent first packet to t74.dslreports.com
29.93s sent first packet to t35.dslreports.com
30.76s got first reply from t74.dslreports.com 79065
30.95s got first reply from t35.dslreports.com 8785
48.82s Recording upload 0.73
48.82s Timer drops: frames=0 total ms=0
48.83s END TEST
50.83s Total megabytes consumed: 33.2 (down:31.5 up:1.7)
↧
↧
Unable to connect to certain websites with Zyxel C1100z
I have CenturyLink service. Although download speeds are not as good as our previous provider, we had enough bandwidth for our needs - including streaming online from Netflix, Amazon Prime, SlingTV and so on. However, earlier this week sometime I noticed:
a) None of our streaming devices (Nvidia Shield TV, Amazon FireTV, Roku - all connected using Ethernet) are able to stream from Netflix anymore. They all give error NW-2-5. I am also not able to stream Netlfix using my Android (OnePlus one) phone.
b) I AM able to connect / login and stream from Netflix to
1) a PC through a browser or the Windows 10 Netflix app
2) couple of iPad minis we have in the house
3) Windows Phone Netflix App.
c) However, if I run a tracert command in a command prompt (with Admin privileges) on the same PC that can stream Netflix through a browser, all Requests time out.
d) I should note that few days before this started happening, I put the CenturyLink Zyxel C1100z modem in Transparent Bridge mode and connected it to my Asus RT-N56u router. I read through http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r30993024-Working-with-ZyXel-C1100Z-modem-bridge-transparent-mode and http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r30794998-Setting-the-ZyXEL-C1100Z-into-bridge-mode to make sure I was following the right steps. I should ALSO note that for troubleshooting this issue, I disconnected ALL computers and devices on our network, took an old laptop that had been turned off for several days, Reset the C1100z to get it out of Transparent Bridge mode and connected only the laptop to the C1100z using Ethernet. I was again able to get online but traceroute command again resulted in Request Time out. I also rebooted my Android Phone and connected wirelessly to the C1100z with same results (i.e. able to stream Amazon Video etc but not Netflix).
e) Other "oddities" I have noticed - I am unable to VPN into my work using the app on my phone like I used to be able to do previously. Moreover, if I click on links in emails from say newegg, Frys or whatever, it does NOT open the webpage in the browser either.
Other things I have tried -
a) On my Android phone, go to Settings -> Apps -> Netflix and clear all Data and Cache information stored and then try to relogin but no cigar.
b) Each of the streaming devices have also been reboot several times and I have confirmed their IP address assignments in the Asus RT-N56 router is consistent with what the device is showing.
c) I have also changed the DNS servers settings in the Asus RT-N56u to point to Google's 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 servers.
There are probably a few other things I have tried over the last 3-4 days that I am probably not recalling but hopefully above might enough info for someone to suggest what could be going on and if there might be some setting I may have missed somewhere or next steps?
P.S. Not sure if this matters but we did pickup 9+ inches of snow in our neighborhood a day or two before (some) Internet services stopped working - not sure if that could have damaged any routing equipment but just mentioning in case it might help.
Thanks in advance for any input and help,
Topper
↧
[Qwest] I thought DSL had dedicated bandwidth that I pay for.
I thought DSL had dedicated bandwidth that I pay for. I live in Longmont co. and just upgraded to 7.5 down. I have and auto speed test run through the day and the speed varies and incredible amount?? All the way down to 3.0 one time and slowly climbed back up. Upload seems plagued by something called Buffer Bloat and apparently very slow. I have DSL run tests for a fee. Any ideas on why DSL from Qwest is so erratic?
↧
[CenturyTel] How Good/Bad CL In Vegas - Summerlin?
Cox is still doing the money grab with the caps. They just did another price hike. I went from $60 - 72/month for 50/5. The phone also went up by $2/mo for basic service.
Looking at CL I can now get 25/? (1 ?) up from 10/1 for the last 13 years. I have read a lot about them in various other cities, but I have not read very much about them in Vegas. Just the fiber in selected areas, which is not in mine.
Anything about the service and streaming all channels via PS Vue, Netflix, and Prime. Locals off my OTA antenna so I don’t have to look at that. . The service would be half on the DL side and I am guessing 1mb UL side. How is this for streaming 2 HDTVs and one other device running full bore at the same time?
Any input is appreciated. Thanks
↧