Hi, I'm looking for suggestions on a DSL Modem only as I intend to keep my existing router. I have considered the Netgear DM200 but I cant seem to get confirmation on if it would work for me here in Las Vegas 89131 with internet only and no prism. It seems like it ultimately comes down to if its a bonded line or not and I cant get any answers directly from centurylink support.
Cox is killing me now with these data caps, I have to make the switch from Cable to DSL to get the 40M unlimited plan. Bye Ultimate 300 =(
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DSL Modem Only Question
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How do I use my own router with C2000a
Would I just disable wireless and connect to my router or are there other settings I need change?
Thanks in advance
James
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CL gig fiber down in at least summerlin Las Vegas for 24h?
My fiber went down last night at about 20:30 and its still down.
CL is no help all they keep saying is there is a problem they don't know what, but they do know itll be fixed around time X.
Which hasn't happened yet ;P
Thank god for backup internet heh
Anyone else have the same problem or should i yell at them for lying its just me ;P
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NV - 1Gb Fiber Speed Test Results
Current speed test results in Las Vegas using CL 1Gb Fiber service:
1. DSL Reports speed test: 621 Down, 966 Up
2. Google Fiber speed test (Los Angeles): 622 Down, 926 Up
3. Speedtest.net speed test (MVDSL): 949 Down, 948 Up
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[Qwest] C1100T vs C2000T
I have the C1100T currently being leased from CenturyLink. I have the 40/5 service but experience some instability sometimes with wifi or ping spikes. Would the C2000T be an upgrade? I am not very knowledgeable in networking so any advice or wisdom is appreciated! Also I would like to raise my bufferbloat score from a C.
Here is some information from my router page
DSL Downstream: 40.127 Mbps
DSL Upstream: 5.116 Mbps
DSL Line Status: MARGINAL
Broadband Mode Detected: VDSL2 - 8A
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ZyXEL C3000Z Modem
Looks like a new generation modem with AC2350 WiFi is out, data sheet site is unavailable but in the help section, looking at the "Resources Section " image, it shows a CPU speed of at least 598 MHz. Looks like it's also tested for DFS channels with the FCC.
CenturyLink Help Page:
https://internethelp.centurylink.com/internethelp/modem-zyxel.html#
FCC Info:
https://fccid.io/I88C3000Z
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new 100mbit install in Sierra Vista AZ - which modem?
I just signed up for new service in Sierra Vista. Was a bit distressed to learn no Cox in the area (not that they're exactly stellar, but the reviews of CL are downright frightening!). We are only going to be in the house for 4-5 months while a new home is being built, so I"m renting the modem from them. Does anybody know which modem will they (likely) install for 100mbit service?
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Virus Infected Bot Traffic and your Acceptable Use Policy
Hello all.
Hopefully this is quick. I have Centurylink DSL and have received a redirect from them whenever I use the internet. The redirect page indicates that my account may be infected. I chatted with support, installed their version of Norton, ran full scans, internet restored.
I received another email this morning with the following;
Date IP Additional Info =================== =============== ======================================================= 2017-12-04 09:27:24 65.128.154.159 infection => 'flashback', subtype => 'flashback', port => '49189', cc_port => '80', agent => 'Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:9.0.1; sv:4; id:CB8518BF-D9C1-580F-8840-71B57FD94915) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/9.0.1', url => '/index.html', public_source => 'SecurityScorecard', asn => '209', cc_ip => '208.100.26.251', cc_asn => '32748', sourceSummary => 'Drone Report'
Questions:
1. Flashback refers to a Mac virus. Can this be on a Windows machine?
2. It references Mozilla (Firefox browser?) but also Windows NT 6.1? I'm confused if this is a virus on the mac or the PC.
3. I just checked and all my computers have the same IP. This is different from cmd ipconfig. This leads me to understand that what Centurylink is capturing is my public IP address, but does not know where inside my network the virus is coming from correct? Ipconfig shows me my internal addresses of each device on the network?
The 3 desktops each have Centurylink's Norton suite. Scans don't show anything. This leads me to deduct that the virus is from the mac.
Appreciate thoughts from anyone.
~Eric
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Backup Battery - CL ONT
Hi all: I want to buy an aftermarket battery for this CyberPower unit which powers my ONT. Does anybody have any suggestions? I have looked all over the CyberPower unit and can't find any serial or model number. It must be on the back which is against the wall :(
Many thanks and Happy Holidays!
TS
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bonded vdsl2 modem?
Hello, I was upgraded from 40mbps VDSL yesterday, to 80mbps bonded VDSL yesterday. The service is very solid and I'm very happy, but I wanted to find out if anyone has any recommendation on a vdsl modem that i can purchase that supports the bonded connection? They gave me a Technicolor c2100T and I hate the fact that its HUGE! I have my own router, so I'm looking for a small form factor modem given that is all I need it for. I've searched through Amazon, best buy, and other google searches today, and after reading some fine print, I can't seem to find a modem that will support the Bonded VDSL connection. Has anyone else had any luck?
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Help requested for an odd C2100T wifi issue and error logs
Hi everyone -
We've been a CenturyLink DSL customer for many years. About 1 month ago, our C1000Z died and Centurylink replaced it with a Technicolor C2100T. I truly appreciate the help.
WIFI Issue
I was able to install the modem and run through the CenturyLink install wizard without any issues. The only thing we changed on wifi is assigning our own password. A few nights ago we encountered a service issue that I thought was related to DSL. I noticed that our computer and all our smartphones were unable to load any internet pages.
I assume our service was down and went into the office where the modem sits. To my surprise, all the internet, DSL and wifi lights were on. I started with my phone and disconnected it from the wifi. However, when attempting to reconnect i was getting a password not matched error and no for a fact it was correct. My wife and kids also tried the same thing with their phones and our home computer and everyone of issued the same wifi password was incorrect. I unplugged the modem for a few seconds and let it connect back up to Centurylink. At that point, we were able to reconnect our phones to wifi using the same password as expected.
Then the same issue occurred last night (12/6) with the exact same behavior. We could not access the internet on any computer, phones, etc. We also got the same wifi password error when disconnecting and reconnecting. The only thing to resolve it was again resetting the modem. Does anyone have any ideas on what we can look at or try to help debug this? I'm a little stumped and do not know enough about trying different settings. I have also spent a lot of time on calls with Centurylink; however, they haven't been able to offer any solutions.
Log errors.
The other thing I noticed that is very odd are the following intrusion errors when looking into the modem activity log. We are getting them about every 15 seconds and appear to have started about two weeks ago. I do not know if this is connected with our above wifi errors, but I have also called Centurylink and, so far, they haven't been helpful at all. This is just a sample of the messages, but we have several pages. It's obviously firewall related, but stumped on how what should we be concerned with and how to even started addressing them.
12/07/2017 08:40:02 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=196.52.43.64 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=6666 DPT=8888
12/07/2017 08:39:41 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=35.161.112.54 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=443 DPT=48240
12/07/2017 08:38:14 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=103.54.94.186 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=64641 DPT=445
12/07/2017 08:37:54 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=191.101.167.7 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=56540 DPT=15180
12/07/2017 08:37:53 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=191.101.167.7 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=56540 DPT=15180
12/07/2017 08:37:32 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=157.240.2.15 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=443 DPT=53278
12/07/2017 08:37:27 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=122.133.14.131 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=6382 DPT=23
12/07/2017 08:36:34 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=95.215.1.37 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=51721 DPT=6119
12/07/2017 08:36:28 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=46.174.191.28 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=51138 DPT=8080
12/07/2017 08:34:31 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=191.101.167.7 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=56540 DPT=15430
12/07/2017 08:34:30 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=106.187.97.102 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=47251 DPT=995
12/07/2017 08:34:01 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=91.195.103.84 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=54407 DPT=33411
12/07/2017 08:34:00 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=91.195.103.84 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=54407 DPT=33411
12/07/2017 08:31:24 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=185.94.111.1 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=UDP SPT=47491 DPT=53
12/07/2017 08:30:52 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=173.242.121.35 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=48212 DPT=22
12/07/2017 08:30:25 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=208.100.26.228 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=41241 DPT=28017
12/07/2017 08:30:25 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=208.100.26.228 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=41241 DPT=28017
12/07/2017 08:30:19 PM Firewall Intrusion -> IN=ppp0.1 OUT= SRC=42.115.168.132 DST=97.125.243.171 PROTO=TCP SPT=31212 DPT=22
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How to almost use any router with CenturyLink's 1 Gig Internet!
So I have CenturyLink's 1 gigabit Internet. One of the biggest complaints I've seen around the Internet over the last year or so is that it's really difficult to use the router of your choice with their service.
CenturyLink provides some pretty awful equipment with their gigabit Internet service. Wireless-N router. Seriously?
The 2 biggest problems I see are the VLAN 201 issue where CL requires you to put a VLAN 201 on the Internet/WAN port of our router. A lot of consumer routers don't support this, or you have to flash custom firmware, etc. And the 2nd biggest problem is consumer routers not being able to download up to the full gigabit speed. Some routers cap out at 300Mbps - 500Mbps.
I FINALLY HAVE FOUND THE SOLUTION! Between the 2 problems mentioned above, my steps below completely solve th VLAN 201 issue.
Now I'm not a networking person, so maybe this seems pretty obvious to some of you. However, over my last year of research, I have not seen this mentioned anywhere on the Internet. I finally found this info on DD-WRT forum website by someone who goes by the username "JAMESMTL." He suggested to a user "why don't you just buy a managed switch and create a VLAN 201 on it."
I seriously thought to myself, "is that all it takes to finally fix this VLAN 201 issue once and for all?" Absolutely!
So here's the switch I bought off of Amazon "NETGEAR ProSAFE GS105Ev2 5-Port Gigabit Web Managed (Plus) Switch (GS105Ev2)" I got it for roughly $40.
Once I got the switch in the mail, it was pretty much just configuring the switch with VLANs 201 on ports 1 and 2. This way the managed switch handles the VLAN 201 issue and then you can almost use any router you want with your CenturyLink service!
Keep in mind, I think you will still have to have a pretty new and kick-butt router, because the router needs to have decent hardware so it can download almost gigabit speeds. I think it's called "NAT acceleration?" From what I've leared online over the last year or so, some routers write their firmware to take advance of this. It's a mixture of hardware/software. If you're going to try and use an old router from a couple years ago, you may run into the 2nd biggest problem I've mentioned above. Your router may cap out download speeds of 300Mbps - 500Mbps.
2 routers I have tested behind my managed switch, are Asus AC3100 and the Netgear Orbi that just came out last month. Both routers performed excellent in speed tests! I was able to achieve 900+Mbps.
Now on to the good stuff! Configuring the Netgear ProSafe GS105Ev2!
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In a nutshell, this is essentially how your network is going to setup with the managed switch:
switch port 1 -> The ethernet cord going from your ONT box is to be plugged into port 1 on the managed switch.
switch port 2 -> The ethernet cord going from port 2 of the managed switch will plug into the WAN (or Internet) port on the back of your router.
switch port 3 -> The ethernet cord going from port 3 should plug into your computer's Ethernet port so you can access the switch's admin panel to configure it.
STEPS TO CONFIGURE THE SWITCH WITH VLAN 201:
So what you're going to do is open the Netgear Utility program to manage this switch.
1. Disable DHCP on the switch, as your router will be handling DHCP. You'll do this by clicking on 'IP Settings' after the utility program discovers your switch.
2. Make sure the switch is on the same subnet as your router. My default router's gateway is 192.168.1.1, therefore, after I disabled DHCP on the switch, the Netgear utility program assigned the switch an IP address of 192.168.1.15. Perfect! Now the Netgear switch is on the same IP subnet as my router. Apply the settings! Now it's time to go into the switch and configure it!
3. Click the VLAN tab in the Netgear configuration utility program.
4. Click on 802.1Q
5. Click on 'Advanced'
6. Enable Advanced 802.1Q
7. Create a VLAN ID with the value '201'
8. Now click on the 'VLAN Membership' link on the left-hand side.
9. In the 'VLAN Identifier' drop-down list, select 201
10. Click on the white box right below 01 port until the letter 'T' is displayed. (T stands for 'tagged.' Port 1 is going to be 201 Tagged.)
11. Click on the white box right below 02 port until the letter 'U' is displayed. (U stands for 'untagged.' Port 2 is going to be 201 Untagged.)
12. Click on the white boxes below the rest of the ports (ports 3, 4, and 5) until there is nothing displayed in the boxes.
13. Click 'Apply' to save your changes.
14. Finally, click 'port PVID' on the left-hand side.
15. Put a check-mark next to Port 01 and Port 02. Assign them both a PVID of 201. Click 'Apply' to save your changes.
16. Configure your home router with your CenturyLink's PPPoE credentials. You can get this info by calling CenturyLink if needed. However, most of us should have received this info from our technician when they installed our Internet. Once you do this, your Internet light on your router should turn green (or whatever color it turns to indicate it's receiving a good Internet connection!)
17. Now disconnect the ethernet cord going from port 3 of the switch to your computer. You now need to plug an ethernet cord into your desktop's LAN port and plug the other end into a port on the back of your router (your desktop needs Internet access after all!)
18. (Optional Step) If you want to be able to access the Netgear's admin panel later on in case you ever need to make changes, then plug an Ethernet cord into port 3 on the back of your managed switch, and plug the other end of ethernet cord into a free port on the back of your router.
REMINDER!: If you are using a router that does by chance allow you to set a VLAN 201 on the WAN/Internet port (like a lot of Asus routers) don't forget to go and remove that now! Your managed switch will be handling the VLAN 201 tagging from now on :-)
YOU'RE DONE! Your $30-40 managed switch is now configured with VLAN 201 so you can now use ANY router with your CenturyLink gigabit Internet (as long as the router supports PPPoE, which most do.)
I know this seems like a lengthy process, but it's actually not. I want to say I spent anywhere from 45 minutes - 1 hour tops! I'm not an expert, but I'm also not a novice.
If anyone has any questions, I'll be happy to answer!
So to wrap it up. What does this work-around provide? It will allow you to use the router of your choice with your CenturyLink gigabit Internet service. You don't have to worry about flashing custom firmwares to routers. You don't have to worry about finding a router that allows you to creat VLANs on the Internet/WAN port, etc. The Netgear managed switch takes care of this!
Hope this helps!
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C1100z issues
Hello,
I got centurylink 40m line and a c1100z modem. I was using q1000z and games and torrents were fast and good no issues. I got my c1100z and when playing Xbox on wireless itâs laggy and have to quit the torrents donât seed like they do with the q1000z. I opened the ports up for torrents and on Xbox but itâs horrible. Newest firmware updates so my question is this is the modem bad because itâs not like the old one performance wise or is it not made for my line.
Thanks john
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CenturyLink ZyXEL 2100z not activating
Sorry in advance for lengthy post, just want to put all the info out there.
I recently had a tech come out and upgrade my CL DSL Lines to 80/10 speeds. When he did that he took away my old single line DSL ZyXEL router and replaced it with an Actiontec modem/router. This activated fine and delivered internet. However, the wireless speeds were less than half of which were being delivered via Ethernet (about 23Mbps...).
Having had bad luck with Actiontec, i demanded a different brand be sent to me. CL then sent me an ZyXEL C2100z (which supports the two DSL line). I could not get this modem/router to obtain solid green DSL lights. They continued to flash, would sometimes go red, but would never go solid green. I troubleshooted with several power cycles, hard resets, manually entering my PPP username/PW, no luck. CL was convinced it was a bad modem. So they sent me a technicolor modem. This worked fine, however....back to the original issue, wireless speeds are terrible (compared to what i should be getting). So, i figured i would ask for a replacement ZyXEL C2100z since it has the ability to have the 5ghz wireless. Once i got my replacement, i have the same exact issues as the other ZyXEL c2100z, tried the same troubleshooting with no luck.
As of right now i have the technicolor back on the network as a temp solution, but i really want this ZyXEL to work so i can be on 5ghz instead of the 2.4.
Anyone have any solutions to this? As of now, CL is chalking this up to a bad modem AGAIN. However, i am not convinced. I think there may be some setting issues with this modem straight from CL or something. I have confirmed with CL that the ZyXEL C2100z is a compatible modem/router on my VDSL2 80/10 internet.
Any help would be appreciated.
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CenturyLink Email Spam Problem
This past week my Centurylink email would not connect. This was across all devices so I was OK on my end. After a few days of this decided to call CLink. They said my account had been locked because of spam. I really get only a few a day but never open them. They had me change my password and I was good to go. Don’t see how I can prevent this from go to the CLink servers. Any else run into this before?
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1gig Fiber setup frustration... Any help would be appreciated.
I am relatively new to all of this. I will try to be as clear as possible, and provide any details that I have.
I am trying to use my own router (ASUS RT-AC88U) with my century link fiber service, as opposed to the modem/router they leased me, which is the C2100T. My current firmware on the asus is the merlin firmware, 382.1_2 installed as of today. When searching online I came across a post from 2015, located here:
https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r30169814-CenturyLink-1-Gigabit-speed-cut-in-half-using-my-own-Asus-Router
I followed all of these steps. I have input my PPoE, switched my VID to 201 and my NAT acceleration is set to auto, it was disabled. I am still only pulling high 300's. This is as simple as I can explain without going into a novel. Any help, or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
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My experience upgrading internet with CenturyLink 4Q 2017
This is a very long post, but I am a novice at this stuff and this website helped me out once when I was in a jam so I've come back to maybe help other newbies who can benefit from any part of my story.
I am in Seattle and have had 7mbps DSL with CenturyLink since about 2009 on a Price For Life campaign (PFL) that they had back then, where you could bundle the PFL with your home phone line. The 7 mbps was $59.95 per month but when bundled with home phone the final price with all taxes etc. was $39 and some change. (Although the bill added each month the Internet Cost Recovery Fee, on the same bill it also credited back that same amount. I had read somewhere that CenturyLink was told (by the FCC?) that Price For Life meant exactly that, so that is why the credit for it showed up every month.) I've had no trouble with the service, maybe a time or to in all of these years where I lost the connection and a reboot of my modem fixed it. I thought 7 mbps would suffice me forever, yeah right! My brother lives an hour away in Frontier Communications territory where all he can get is 3 mbps and he is envious of my 7 mbps! Yet, now I want to stream without the chronic buffering thing, but I also did not want to lose my PFL convenience and be subject to future price increases.
Well, along comes CenturyLink's resurrected PFL campaign (beginning last September?) where it states you do not even need a home phone to get their PFL prices. Because they had previously strung an aerial fiber cable along my arterial street, the new speeds available to me were 20, 40, 100, and 1 gig. I called them up, wanting to upgrade, but they stated I did not qualify for the PFL prices because I had a home phone with them! Hey, I thought my home phone didn't matter to them! Hmm... I decided they figured they already had me in the bag and only sought customers who switch from their competitors. Not cool. I could have sworn their website text stated "for new and existing customers" but I could no longer find that text. I called back a week or so later to try again, the rep said the only way I could qualify as a "new" customer for the PFL was to disconnect my current DSL *and* my home phone line, then place an order for new home phone service with the PFL High Speed Internet (HSI, no longer referred to as DSL, apparently). I thought disconnecting my home phone line was completely unnecessary and a lot of hoop-jumping for me, the customer, just to get around their apparent marketing restrictions. I didn't do it.
This drove me nuts. I want to pay CL more money but they won't let me! Why won't CL take my money? I've never heard anything like this before. I mean, who doesn't want to make a better profit from their customers? I then finally noticed on their ubiquitous PFL TV commercials the small print that appears for only one second, and it said "for new and existing customers"! Why not me? I'm an existing customer!
After some thought, I decided that perhaps it was the way I opened the discussion with their reps when I would ask them for exactly what was advertised in their PFL TV commercials. If they had to tell me 'no', why wouldn't they say, "But here is what we CAN offer you!". So, a month or more later, I called them up a third time and said, "I currently enjoy bundled service with home phone and 7 mbps internet. I've been thinking about upgrading my internet. What can you offer me to bundle my home phone with a higher internet speed?" I did not even mention the PFL TV commercials.
The rep replied that she could do this: disconnect from my existing billing account the DSL portion, leaving on that account just my home landline, then create a second account (separate billing number) for my new PFL higher internet speed. Smokin'! Gee, did CL just give their reps the ok to be this creative or did I happen to reach a spunky service rep? Who cares! I dig it! I ordered 100 mbps service and chose to buy their $100 modem (er, router) rather than rent it, and because I don't want any future trouble-shooting to be pinned on a third-party router; I want to be able to say, "Hey, I bought it from YOU!" LOL. She said the earliest the guy could come out would be three days later. I asked would my modem arrive so quickly? She said yes.
Two days later, a contractor came out and ran optical fiber from the pole and along my house to near where the copper phone line entered my house, leaving a coil of optical fiber hanging. This is normal and expected. He told me that the regular installer may or may not remove the copper drop.
LESSON NUMBER 1: Although my outcome was beautiful (explained in a moment), if ordering HSI that will result in a brand new fiber drop, one should realize in advance just where they expect to drill through the wall of your home in order to mount on your inside wall their Optical Network Terminal (ONT) so that it isn't a shockeroo when the regular CL installer shows up, with short notice to approve of the drilling. They will want it near an inside power outlet. While their regular installer may have flexibilities available to him to move the drilling location assumed by the contractor, maybe you can get ahead of this by identifying as early as possible what your options are as far as where on the outside of your house they can drill (what room of your house, that is, and near a power outlet). In my case, where they planned to drill and mount turned out to be the best outcome for my situation, even after discussing their options with the actual installer who came out the very next day (the third day).
On the morning of this third day, the actual CL installer had called me early 0830am to verify that I would be home for my afternoon window. I said yes but the promised new modem had not arrived in the mail. He said no problem, they would loan me one to get me up and running and when mine arrives I could swap it out and return theirs to them with pre-paid postage. Cool. He came out and I pointed where on the inside wall I was looking for the ONT to be mounted, he measured relative to the nearby window, went outside and drilled the hole. Over the hole on the outside of the house he mounted a sturdy plastic box that he said contained the extra optical fiber length, coiled up. Over the hole on the inside of my house he mounted the ONT upside-down, probably to put the connection jacks at the bottom side where dust wouldn't fall into them. I like that he did that, placed it upside down, and this black box is so devoid of style and printing that you do not notice its orientation on the wall unless you get your face up close to read the small print labeling the LEDs. All connections attach along the bottom. Perfect.
He had assumed my home phone line would also be served by the fiber drop so he proceeded to make me realize that the copper wiring to all of my existing wall jacks would be made inoperative. I asked how can I have my existing phone extensions in the other rooms if he cut dead the copper drop? This was a surprise. I had not anticipated this. To run a phone cord from the nearest wall jack to the ONT phone jack in order to still utilize my other wall jacks would be too far to run it. He said what folks do is to buy a phone system with many wireless handsets, plugging in the base station at/to the ONT and to the nearby wall outlet, then plugging in the remote handset bases wherever else in the house they wanted extension phones. As I settled into this unsettling consequence (another expense, and will eat up more wall outlets), and as he went back and forth inside and outside my house, upon his next trip indoors he said he looked closer at my order and they were keeping my home phone on the copper. Hooray! That means my wall jacks will stay operative. I will have both a copper drop for my home phone and a fiber drop for my HSI. No need to buy a new phone system. I love it!
LESSON NUMBER 2: if you currently have a working landline plugged into any of the wall jacks that were installed when your home was new, and if you do not want to abandon that copper line and all of your extension jacks when you install a new optical drop, to have to buy a new wireless phone system to hog all of your wall power outlets, you should find out in advance from CL if you can keep your landline on the copper and have only your HSI go in on the new fiber drop. That is definitely the way I would go. I make note that the contractor was not there to pull down the copper. I am very happy that they kept my landline on the copper. Maybe I lucked out because the service rep had created a separate billing account for only my HSI which logically left my landline untouched. Incidentally, with my HSI removed from the phone line, I was now able to remove from each wall jack the little filtering dongle that CL gave me back in 2009 to use at each wall jack where I had a phone plugged in.
With the installer done with his installation, I accessed my modem wirelessly from my desktop, seven feet away, tables, books, and a huge printer in the air path. He said a wireless connection would be less than the 100 mbps speed. A speedtest came in at 79mbps download which seemed too much of a degradation over wireless but it is his loaner modem and maybe my modem will be better? After he departed, I replaced my wireless connection with a 14-foot CAT6 cable and the speedtest came in at 103 mbps. Smokin'! What a drop in download speed for wireless, though, huh?
A week later, my first bill on this new billing account was rendered and it showed the $100 charge for the modem which had still not arrived. I called the billing department to explain I was not excited to pay for something that may never arrive. He said the notations in my account showed that they considered the loaned modem as mine. I told him the installer said it was not new and I'd rather have a new one for the price I am paying for a new one. No problem at all, they ordered a new one and as I write this, the UPS tracking states it is expected to arrive Monday, two days from now. The rep said there was no additional charge of course but he was wise enough to say that if somehow a second $100 charge shows up on the next bill, to call them and they would write it off because of his copious notes from our call.
That is my experience. I will say the contractor and the CL installer were both nice, courteous, and available to answer my questions. Even though this long story might seem to contain several minor issues, I am very happy with how this whole thing went down. I have worked for a large company and have dealt with plenty of large companies and I know how things go, so you will not find me blaming for certain unknowns in this story. I later read that CL initially allowed PFL for only new customers but later allowed it for existing customers so maybe that explains why I was initially refused. I don't hold ill will. My new 100 mbps HSI from CenturyLink absolutely rocks. And, it's Price For Life which took the scare out of future budgeting on my income. Their website says PFL is still exempt from the Internet Cost Recovery Fee. I am very happy with this service and wanted to explain the whole upgrade experience, the great, the good, and the not so good. I would recommend this service to others but I would make any novices like me sit through my story so they would be better equipped. I understand CL personnel also read this forum. Thank you.
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Price for Life Customers: Do you lose your phone number?
Right now I have CenturyLink DSL as well as pots that I don't really use. I want to upgrade to the new price for life but I want to Port my phone number to Google. However, the current plans go up $10 starting Wednesday so I would like to get into it tomorrow. I would like to keep my phone number if I can to Port it, but I don't think that's possible with just over 24 hours remaining unless you never actually lose the number and it stays on your DSL only account. Did other customers lose their phone number when upgrading or does it still stay tied to your account?
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some TLS connections now hang with Draytek Vigor 2860
Been using a Draytek Vigor 2860 for a couple of years, no issues.
Starting last week, some sites are not reachable (mostly) For example, going to www.verizonwireless.com hangs on either ss73.vzw.com or
scache2.vzw.com. Other sites that hang are www.nvidia.com and www.sciencedaily.com. Not all https:// bits hang, just some. Most others
are fine. The strange thing is that, sometimes they do work, but most of the time they do not. Sometimes they will fail for a while and
then magically start working.
It's definitely not the computer(s), as any computer hooked to the Draytek exhibits the same issues.
I have a backup Draytek, just in case the main one failed in some way. Took it out of the box and it fails on these web sites as well.
Here's the odd bit. If I take an old D-link (I used it for years but stopped when they stopped updating the firmware) and use it, everything
is fine.
I'm a bit stumped. The Drayteks have not changed, so I want to say its the network, but the D-link works.
Thanks for any clues.
Cheers,
threeallama
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Residential Trouble - secondary DSL circuit drops primary...
One of my business customers got me involved in a residential issue and I'm getting no results from CenturyLink.
The location had an existing adsl2 but they were maxing out the downstream bandwidth pretty regularly. The market doesn't support vdsl, nor does it support bonding, so I suggested they get a second adsl2 circuit and I'd just use and EdgeRouter to bond the two WAN connections.
The odd thing is that when the 2nd modem is connected to the phone line and powered up it causes the 1st to drop sync. 2nd never syncs.
If you disconnect the 1st modem, and only connect the 2nd, it syncs.
These are delivered on separate pairs to the NID.
We opened a ticket for a vendor meet on the 20th, but the CL tech showed up 4 hours early and I wasn't available to drive the 45 min to the location at that time. The local tech gave me some BS about signal fine but there's voltage on the line and then he closed the ticket even after he told me he'd escalate the issue.
If any one from CL can help I can PM any additional information like the service address and prior ticket number.
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